Thank you inkjet2 for the updating.

buickbob;
Do you have or have access to a multimeter?
There are several hi current fuses used in the vehicle like 60 amp for the heated seats.
These fuses are located in the underhood fuse blocks left and right sides just below the windshield.
If you have the amp meter connected in each hi rated fuse slot one at a time and you wiggle that questionable wiring harness you might be able to pin down just which circuit is involved.
If you don't have the following info, maybe this will be helpful. Starting at the left hand side of the left hand(drivers side) fuse /relay center the relays are;
Low Speed coolant fan relay
hi speed coolant fan relay
Main relay
ABS pump relay
hi speed blower relay
I am trying to breakdown the power distribution schematic for your vehicle .
It looks like that vehicle has every kind of control except birth control !
A multimeter would really help make things easier to pin down. The meter would be connected between the battery positive terminal (meter set to read amps) and the positive battery cable. When first hooked up and allowed to stabilize you should get an amp reading of the vehicle at rest , key off. Once stabilized ,now you can move any wires you want and watch the meter for any jump in reading. Now you would be closing in on the area/circuit with the intermittent/partial short. Of course you could always do what is referred to as the smoke test , hope you wiggle the right wire and hope the short is bad enough to make the affected wire smoke.
Last but not least, have someone watch the voltmeter in the vehicle , key on, and move the wiring. When you get the spot/area the voltmeter will drop and now you will have an idea where to get involved. And here you thought you were windy !!

 

We changed the belt when we changed out the 1st alternator. Thought that could have been it, but wasn't.

 

hanky,

I have a good Fluke multimeter so I will do the amp test. I did take a voltage reading across the battery with engine off and it read 12.655 volts. Then I took a reading with the car running at the positive side of the alt. and to ground side of the battery and also across the battery and it 14.22 volts. I will get back to you after the amp test. The car doesn't have the heated seats which may be a good thing.

Thank you,

buickbob

 

Now we're cookin ! The readings you showed are on the money. Your first reading with everything off and of course doors closed should be (between the + post and positive cable ) under 50 milliamps or .05 amps at rest and stabilized. I don't know what limit your amp scale has , but be careful because as you know the amp setting is like a direct connection and a high amp reading could blow the fuse in your meter.

 

Hanky,

I have been doing some more checking on the 95 Buick Park Avenue and with the volt meter set to amps, the reading between the battery cable and the battery is 20 to 10 millamps when the car is off and allowed to set 20-30 minutes. There is not much paracitic load for this car. Also wiggled the wiring from the alt. to the battery volt gage but no changes. I will try it with the key on and move wires to see what happenes next. I had back surgery in early April so haven't been able to do anything on this car for a while but doing much better now.

BuickBob

 

I thought I posted a reply to your last post, but I don't see it.
I'm pretty sure the car will hold on until your back improves to the point where you might be able to continue. Take care , will wait for your improvement and next post.

 

My issue is I replaced alternator and battery. All circuits test good but check charge system comes on when I start driving. Any suggestions on how to fix it